Sheboygan, WI to Manitowoc, WI

I was happy to see the Manitowoc North Breakwater Lighthouse announcing our arrival into the Manitowoc Harbor.

It is always a process when we pull into a new slip at a marina. Captain Tom ALWAYS has to adjust the lines and the fenders so they are “just perfect”. Then he hooks us up to shore power and water. After these duties are accomplished, he will then check in with the marina office and pay for the dockage. The marina will then provide all the necessary information such as gate codes, WIFI password, and any applicable keys. With the more efficient marinas, they will provide a booklet with local services, restaurants, shops, transportation, etc. It’s always a surprise what is received during check in. We have received tote bags, post it notes, stickers, magnets, koozies, dish towels, paperback books and even bottles of wine. When finally settled, the captain relaxes while I go exploring, or sometimes we go together. On this day, we decide to take a walk to the lighthouse together and see up close Phil’s Dream.

While on the lighthouse platform, we watch the S.S. Badger leave its port in Manitowoc bound for Ludington, MI. The S.S. Badger actually is considered part of Highway 10. It services 62 miles of highway 10, connecting Wisconsin to Michigan. The fare? $167 per car and $155 per adult. It is a costly 62 miles!

Besides the Canadian Geese greeting us on our trek, we happened upon these birds.

These are American White Pelicans. They are one of the largest flying birds, larger than a Bald Eagle but smaller than a California Condor. They are snowy white, until they fly. Then you see their black flight feathers. We have seen them in Florida during the winter, and now in Wisconsin during the summer, so they are the real “snow birds”.

While Manitowoc may be remembered to the older generation as the town in which part of Sputnik crashed in 1962, its real legacy lies in the 28 submarines it built during WW II. Manitowoc proudly hails its shipbuilding history at the Wisconsin Maritime Museum. A prototype of a submarine built in Manitowoc is available to tour.

While the inside of the Cobia was quite overwhelming with its mechanics and cramped spaces, the real eye opening lesson was learning about the horrific living conditions of these submariners. While they did have the perks of good food, no dress code, and higher pay, their daily lives were brutal. 80 men were stationed on a submarine in which temperatures could reach over 100 degrees. Showers, with minimal water, were every 10 days at best and one showered with clothes on, combining shower day with laundry day. Obviously, the smell of men was ripe. Combine this smell with diesel fuel , cigarettes, cooking, hydraulic fluid and sewage, an unique smell enveloped the entire ship. Cotton balls, the ear protection of the day against the loud diesel motors, were no match resulting in rampant deafness. While smoking was allowed, a cigarette would have a hard time lighting as the oxygen level was so low. Combine these trying physical conditions with the mental stress of being submerged in a hostile sea with the possibility of an attack at any time , the submariner was one brave soldier! One out of five submarines were lost during World War II making the submariner one of the most dangerous positions in the war. These were brave “men” at 17 to 20 years old!

Within the museum, we also happened upon an exhibit relating to us!

Exhibit of the Great Loop!

Just to recap, the black is the part of the loop we have already accomplished. The red alone is the route left to navigate. So the logical question is why are we heading north into Wisconsin and not south to the Mississippi? The answer is that we can’t. From June 1-Sept. 30, 2023, Brandon Road, Dresden Island and Marseilles locks are scheduled to close to navigation for critical repairs and maintenance. Therefore we can not leave Lake Michigan and head into the Illinois River until these locks reopen.

We enjoyed our time in Manitowoc. They have a nice riverfront walkway with fountain and gardens. We also discovered a great local brewery named Petskull and a neighboring sports bar, Shooter Malone’s, that served us a broasted chicken platter, a Rueben sandwich and 2 spotted cows for a total of $18.00. We are not in Chicago anymore!

Next port… Sturgeon Bay, WI